| Tip's for starting your two cycle fuel-injection engine. |
(1) Use gasoline to start your engine for the first time. you can try kerosene, etc.. later after you know the engine is running correctly. (2) Fill fuel reservoir to the top of float with gas before trying to start engine. (3) You may have to prime engine with gas to get it started, use primer cup valve on side of cylinder. (4) Make sure top on fuel reservoir has a gasket and is sealed tight. (5) If you have a two piece reservoir/injector, the reservoir height should be adjusted so that the fuel level in the reservoir is on the center line of the injector nozzle. Follow steps A & B below. (A) Set fuel level in reservoir first: Add fuel in reservoir until float ball needle has seated in the up direction. A squirt bottle works good for this and will allow you to add a little fuel at a time. Once the ball needle has seated up then the fuel is at the correct height. Use a black marker and mark the fuel height on the outside of reservoir then drain fuel from reservoir. (B) The black mark should line up to the center line of you injector nozzle. If not you will have to remove the reservoir from the engine and then adjust reservoir up or down on the thread which ever is required. If the reservoir height is set to high your engine may flood with gas. If the reservoir height is set to low your engine may not receive gas. This is a pain to adjust and there is a little bit of guess work involved but it must be set fairly close. (6) Make sure check ball and check needle ball on bottom of fuel reservoir are not gummed up and are working correctly. (7) Use hard grease on main bearings, This helps to seal in crank case pressure so fuel injection system works correctly. (8) Do not run engine with out water cooling tank attached and full of water. Remember this is a two cycle engine it gets hot very fast. (9) Make sure the drip oiler lines are connected to the correct ports. (See Detroit photo section). Make sure the drip oiler/oilers have a check balls installed. This allows the lubrication and fuel injection systems to work correctly by keeping crank case pressure from escaping and blowing oil and air back up the lines into the drip oiler. The drip oiler should be vented on the top somewhere. Using two cycle oil in your drip oiler will not carbon the spark plug as bad as using regular oil. (10) If you run your engine exceptionally slow you may get air blow back from the crank case in your oiler because there is not enough pressure to make the check balls work correctly in your drip oiler as a result your engine may not receive proper lubrication. On Detroit Carburetor engines you can mix two cycle oil into your gas (30:1 mix) to help lubricate the engine. Remember if you mix oil with your gas on engines with fuel reservoir and injector the fuel is injected straight into the cylinder so very little gas goes into the bottom end. So you should still use the drip oiler to lubricate the bottom end. I would also use the drip oiler to lubricate the top end also. (11) If you have trouble with engine not wanting to start and engine appears to be flooded try draining excess gas and oil from the crank case drain. This may help your problem. (12) Adjusting Air Intake Valve: When the nut on the air-intake valve is adjusted clockwise more tension is put on the valve allowing less air to enter into the crank case there fore lower crank case pressure, lower fuel pressure, lower RPM. If the nut on the air-intake valve is turned counter clockwise the tension on the valve is decreased allowing more air to enter into the crank case there fore more air pressure is created more fuel pressure and in return more RPM. (13) To start your engine on kerosene fill main tank with kerosene. Fill fuel reservoir to the top of float with gas. This will allow the engine to warm up a little before switching over. You can also run the engine on kerosene just by using gasoline as a starter in the primer cup that's located on the cylinder. (14) Position of timing lever for starting engine. See starting instructions shown below and diagrams from figure #4 and figure #5. Looking at the engine from the timing lever side most of the stationary engines seem to run better counter clock wise as shown in figure #4. In these diagrams the (A) arrow is the direction the engine is running. The (B) arrow is the direction you turn the flywheel to bump against compression. (15) Most important is Patients! If you have
completely disassembled your engine for restoration chances are there
are going to be some problems in getting it started for the first time. |
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The information below was
copied from a 1915 operating manual. Detroit Stationary Engines |
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